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Ha Giang posses way to Heaven’s Gate
In my eyes, Ha Giang, the northernmost province of Vietnam , is
the most attractive destination in the country, with the rocky plateau at Dong
Van, the love market at Khau Vai, Heaven’s Gate over the Quan Ba Pass and the
friendly, colourful ethnic groups. For that reason, despite the bad weather and
narrow roads, our seven-day trip to Ha Giang was eagerly anticipated.
The rocky, limestone district of Quan Ba was our second stop after Hoang Su Phi.
Located 320km to the north of Hanoi on the border with China , the district at
an elevation of 1,000m above sea level and with its fresh, cool climate,
typifies the beauty of Ha Giang. From there, we set out for the Quan Ba Pass and
Heaven's Gate. The imposing, formidable landscape had us in awe as our car
snaked along the treacherous roads, clinging to the side of the mountain. With a
sheer drop on one side and cliffs rising up into the clouds on the other, it was
as if God had chalked a line across the harsh terrain.
Reaching Heaven's Gate, the mist enveloped us, and the biting breeze rushed into
the car as soon as the door was opened. The temperature in the early morning was
very cold, even though we were wearing warm clothes.
Heaven's Gate is about 1,500m above sea level, and in 1939, the French built a
stone wall and a wooden gate to block the pass, in order to prevent access to
the Dong Van plateau and beyond. From the top of the mountain pass, we looked
down across a large valley of unending terraced fields, displaying a charming
beauty like a paradise dimly visible through the clouds. They carpet the ground
in a patchwork of yellow rice, green shoots and brown mountain earth, with small
houses nestled in between.
Standing out from this colourful valley is Twin Mountain , certified as a
national heritage site by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism last year.
Its twin peaks rise up like the breasts of a giant woman, lying on the valley
floor. The mountain is truly a product of leaching and erosion, combined with
tectonic movement from a fault line below that last occurred around 5 million
years ago. In actual fact, Quan Ba boasts an extensive karst landscape, but many
regard Twin Mountain as its most beautiful feature, due to its picturesque
setting.
We ventured down to Quyet Tien Commune, where the weather is very cool. With its
temperate climate and fertile soil, locals can grow vegetables such as kohlrabi,
cabbages, mustard greens, tomatoes and potatoes, as well as flowers including
roses, daisies and violets, that they sell in the town.
We caught snatches of conversation from the locals as they worked happily in the
fields.
We stopped one farmer, and asked her about her livelihood, and she blushed with
embarrassment.
"My family used to grow rice, but now we grow high-quality vegetables and
flowers. Thanks to this, my family's income has increased significantly," said
Vang Thi May from Vinh Tien Hamlet.
Heading to Lung Tam Commune over the rolling hills and bumpy roads, we saw a
valley of lush, green flax. This kind of plant provides the main raw material
for brocade weaving. The village has a long-standing tradition of brocade
weaving that contributes to preserving the traditional culture of the Mong who
live in the area.
Around the Hop Tien Flax Weaving Co-operative established in the village in
2001, clanking sounds emanate from the looms and sewing machines.
The organisation started with 20 members, but today, 110 members each enjoy an
average income of 1 million VND (48 USD) per month.
Source: VNA |
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