A breath of fresh air

      Duc Hanh escapes the sticky heat of Ho Chi Minh City and basks in the sun by Ho Tram beach.
After struggling to get out of the city thanks to the chronic traffic jams coming out of Ho Chi Minh City, we make a turn for Ba To town in Xuyen Moc district of Ba Ria- Vung Tau province and finally we’re making some headway.
Our destination is Ho Tram beach, which runs alongside the edge of Phuong Buu forest reserve. All along the coastline fishermen come and go from bustling wharfs. On closer inspection we see hauls of fish, crab and squid coming ashore. The sun-kissed fishermen unload their boats then set about fixing their fishing nets as women from the village sort the catches into baskets.
Nearby the Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa makes the most of the wonderful setting. From the front of the brown tile-roofed houses guests can take it all in while taking a dip in the swimming pool or down at the beach. Then there’s Sanctuary Ho Tram, a spectacular waterfront community of luxury residential villas and a five-star resort. Although still under construction, the chic, modern white façade is still dazzling in the brilliant sun.
Two kilometres down the coast at Ho Tram public beach you can rent a lounger for VND10,000 or an inflatable ring for VND10,000 to VND20,000 and lounge on the waves. After a swim we doze on the beach before hunger rouses us. We decide to try the local restaurant where we enjoy a delicious feast of boiled crab and grilled blood clams.
Afterwards we visit Ba To town where we find a bustling seafood market with an abundance of dried and fresh seafood available. Here the buildings are sparsely furnished and simply decorated. The locals are easy going and approachable. If you feel like exploring more the coastline you can rent a bicycle or motorbike easily enough (we didn’t even need to leave a deposit or ID card).
While the town itself is not particularly impressive, the surrounding countryside is unforgettable with red-soil paths running past shrimp ponds that sit amongst the golden paddy fields that stretch as far as the horizon. After driving around in the sun we decide its time to head back to the beach where we can take a cooling dip then stretch out on the sand with nothing but the sounds of the sea in our ears.
A gentle breeze blows over us as we nibble on a plate of fresh squid and sip on a cold beer – simply heaven. Before the sun sets I wander to the end of Ho Tram beach, which has been fenced off, and I discover what else is to come. A five-star resort and entertainment complex is now being developed to the tune of $4.2 billion; a rather incongruous sounding figure considering how quaint and rustic the services on the beach I have just enjoyed are.
The superior complex will be finished in 2011 and there will be two five-star hotels offering 2,300 rooms, international restaurants, health and spa facilities, conference rooms, a shopping centre and even a Las Vegas-style casino. If it’s a simple beach holiday in a quiet destination you are after, perhaps you should visit Ho Tram sooner rather than later.
Getting there: Ho Tram is in Xuyen Moc district of Ba Ria-Vung Tau province, 35km from Vung Tau city and 125km from Ho Chi Minh City. From Ho Chi Minh City you can either drive or take the hydrofoil from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau (VND140,000) and then get a taxi from Vung Tau to Ho Tram.