Fruit of the forest

      With a fascinating blend of natural beauty, wildlife and history the mangrove forest of Can Gio makes for a great day trip out of Ho Chi Minh City, writes Duc Hanh.
My friends from Ho Chi Minh City advised against it, but I decide to take a motorbike to the mangrove forest of Can Gio. I get claustrophobic on buses and although it’s a slog getting out of the city, I prefer to be the author of my own fate.
I make my way towards the ferry crossing at Binh Khanh. After crossing Nha Be River I am officially in Can Gio district, about 60km from downtown Ho Chi Minh City. A smooth road winds its way into the thick forest where mangroves and water coconut trees grow in abundance. It’s hard to imagine that the forest was all but destroyed by bombs and defoliants during the war with the US. Thanks to a reforestation programme launched by Ho Chi Minh City authorities by 1996 35,000ha of trees had been replanted.
Can Gio Mangrove Forest mostly falls under the authority of Ho Chi Minh City. The forest was listed as the first biosphere reserve in Vietnam by UNESCO in 2000. The site is an important wildlife sanctuary in Vietnam as it is characterised by a wetland biosystem dominated by mangrove and many rare species. It is home to 72 species of mangrove trees, 70 species of river-bed animals, 137 species of fish, nine species of amphibians, 31 species of reptiles, 129 species of birds and 18 species of mammals.
Among them there are 21 rare and endemic species that are listed in the Red Book of Vietnam. As a protected UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, it is illegal to farm, or take fish or wood from Can Gio forest. Mangroves are an important part of an eco-system that supplies nutrients to coastal fisheries and feeds fish and shrimp. The forest also serves as a natural barrier against storms and erosion.
The forest is an incredibly rich and varied experience for visitors. You can discover the ancient culture of Oc Eo ethnic group, war relics and learn about the hardships endured by the Vietnamese Resistance during the American war at the revolutionary base of Rung Sac. You can even find windswept beaches within its boundaries. After travelling through the forest, I decide to check out Vam Sat Ecotourism Site.
Covering an area of nearly 2,000 hectares, the site was recognised by the World Tourism Organisation (WTO) in 2003 as one of Vietnam’s two sustainable ecotourism sites. We jump into canoes and explore the swamp. We paddle under the mangrove trees and peek up at hundreds of sleeping bats that hang from the trees.
“We often call them flying-foxes as they are very big and nimble,” says Van, who works as a caretaker at the eco-tourism site. “In the late afternoon, you will see them spreading their wings and flying away in search of food.” Everybody does their best to keep silent lest we disturb the bats. We float in a world of clear water, green trees, blue skies and a gentle breeze.
Heaven. After that we make our way towards Tang Bong tower to enjoy the panorama of the whole area from the top of the 26m building. A small museum at the foot of Tang Bong tower displays ancient terra-cotta antiques and introduces the various species of birds and storks living in the area. At a bird sanctuary we spot herons, Giang Sen painted storks and cormorants. Then we hop into a boat and check out a crocodile farm, which I must admit has me more than a little nervous.
The large black-spotted yellow crocodiles with red eyes come swimming alongside us. The guide then announces we’re “fishing for crocodiles” and hands me my “fishing rod” (basically a large tree branch with a fish at the end). Cautiously I cast my rod into the water and as soon as the crocodile spots the fish it is devoured. I realise that we’re feeding crocodiles rather than fishing. Paranoid that the crocodile will pull me in I let go of the rod.
“These crocodiles are called Ca Sau Hoa Ca and they are only found in the waters of southern Vietnam,” says Dung, one of employees from the crocodile farm. “They are one of the most fierce species in the world.” Needless to say I don’t find this reassuring. I’m glad to be heading back to the centre of the ecotourism park where I plunge into the swimming pool. The man-made salt water pool is wonderful. I can just lean back and float in the water.
But soon I’m as hungry as a horse. We head over to Vam Sat restaurant and order a wonderful hotpot with fresh water fish (lau ca). You can also find crocodile meat and crocodile eggs in the menu, but I must admit, the meat is sinewy and tough to eat while boiled crocodile egg might just be one of the worst dishes I have ever tasted. After lunch we lolled around in a hammock in the forest before trying our hand at fishing, this time thankfully with no crocodiles involved.
Getting there
Vam Sat Eco-tourism Centre in Can Gio Mangrove Forest is 60km southeast of Ho Chi Minh City. You can get there by road or boat. By road, go through District 7 along Huynh Tan Phat street and cross Nha Be River by ferry at Binh Khanh. Then you drive through Can Gio on the Rung Sac road for 25km to Dan Xay bridge, turn right for the Vam Sat Eco tourism centre. Alternatively boats will take you from Bach Dang Wharf in downtown Ho Chi Minh City straight to Can Gio Mangrove Forest.