Mystical caves add to lure of eco-tourism complex

      After weeks of hard work, we drive to the Trang An Grottoes Eco-tourism Complex, which is about two hours from Ha Noi, for a relaxing weekend.
We find a peaceful and romantic atmosphere in an area earmarked for development. The complex features limestone mountain ranges, valleys and rivers which blend with a sea of green.
Plans for the eco-tourism complex were created five years ago. The area is a natural gem of the northern province of Ninh Binh. It covers 1,566ha, including 980ha of protected mountains and forest. The remainder is set aside for developing the infrastructure to accommodate growing tourism.
As of yet, the area has no hotels, restaurants, cafes or shops and is a wonderfully natural place but it may not stay that way for long.
A rowing boat offers the perfect way to appreciate Trang An’s scenery. All around us, more than 30 water-submerged valleys are linked by a clear blue river, that provides access to about 50 caves under the limestone mountains.
Floating on the crystal clear pools are several rowboats, in which local women wait hopefully for customers from among the trickle of tourists. They were farmers, but their paddy fields were incorporated into the Trang An development. Now they survive by rowing tourists around their backyard.
The trip along a meandering river lined with trees and rare orchids helps visitors understand the locals’ immense pride in the area.
We visit a system of nine grottoes, some of the more noteworthy being Ba Giot (Three Drops), Dia Linh (Holy Land), May (Cloud) and Seo and Khong. But for those with different interests, there are numerous historical relics relating to architecture and economics, as well as the social and military history from Dinh, Le and Ly dynasties.
The grottoes connect to create a waterway which pierces the hillside. Sparkling stalactites, which started in a different age, swoop down to the water. We can easily reach them. Each stalactite conceals a private legend.
On a nice day, visitors can sometimes see a couple of great phoenix flying from Seo grotto. Sadly, we didn’t have the luck.
Ba Giot cave carries the legend that anybody catching three mystical water drops from colourful stalagmites will enjoy a fine love.
Khong Cavern, next to Khong Temple, is also the last cave on the trip. Local residents say the temple worships a merciful mandarin.
Legend is that thousands of years ago, poor people were forced to build secret ramparts in the hillsides for the king. When the buildings were finished, they were killed.
The merciful mandarin was sympathetic to the victims of this injustice and formed an altar to offer to them to stop their anger.
Khong temple is shaded by a big fruit tree with long and round fruit.
The special tree grew from a dead persimmon, which was watered by tears of the Khong mandarin, who cried for the souls of the luckless. Bui Thanh Liem, a tourist from the northern province of Thai Binh said: "I have never seen such a beautiful place. While floating on the water, seeing caves and rare and precious flora and fauna, I was basking in a poet’s paradise."
"The Trang An grottoes system is like a Ha Long Bay on land, where limestone mountain ranges, a river, flooded valleys and caverns mix to create an imposing and mysterious place," says Liem.
After looking contentedly at colourful views of the water, we exercise with 15 minutes climbing a hill. After 100 stone steps, we reach Tran Temple, built in the 13th century to honour the Tran Dynasty.
Tran Temple is fairly small and made of stone. Its four pillars are delicately carved. Each pillar offers a wish.
To make a wish, we rub money on the stone post. The first pole is for health, second position and fame, third money and finally love. We earnestly believe good wishes will materialise for us.
During excavations, archaeologists discovered bows, dishes, pots, bricks, tiles and ancient money.
"At the Trang An Grottoes area, many tools made of stone dating back to the Stone Age were found," says Nguyen Cao Tan, an official from the heritage section of Ninh Binh’s Department of Culture, Sports, and Tourism.
"They attracted the attention of English archaeologists, who discovered valuable objects which helped them learn about people, the environment and the natural changes."
The complex, which opened last year, is Ninh Binh’s key tourism zone. When finished next year, it will become a major international tourism centre offering historical, cultural, entertainment, eco, festival, religious, grotto discovery and adventure tours (rock climbing, trekking), as well as kayaking and historical-cultural research.
The project aims to preserve, embellish and promote the value of the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital while protecting tangible and intangible cultural values.
The only cost for visitors is for boating. When the complex is completed, it is expected to attract more and more domestic and international tourists.
From the first glance, the trees, a crystal clear river, fresh air, magical caves and sweeping mountains rich with history charmed us and we didn’t want to leave.