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Con Son Mountain and Pagoda
Con Son Mountain looks like a resting lion.
With a shrine on the top, its 238m northern ridge adjoins Ngu Nhac Mountain. Con
Son borders U Bo Mountain and a valley with bamboo hedges to the west. Next to
it is the 72-peak Phuong Hoang (phoenix) mountain range with its vast pine
forests, sparkling streams, rugged cliffs and ancient towers and pagodas. Con
Son is also known as Tu Phuc or Hun. In the 10th century, Dinh Bo Linh, who
would later become future King Dinh Tien Hoang, from Hoa Lu in present-day Ninh
Binh Province rose up against 12 warlords competing for power. Pursued by Dinh
Bo Linh’s forces, Pham Phong At, one of the warlords who ruled the northeast
region, fled to Con Son Mountain to hide together with his entourage. Following
the advice from his subordinate, Dinh Bo Linh set the forests on fire to smoke
out the warlord, who had to surrender and was captured. Located at the foot of
Con Son Mountain is Con Son Pagoda built at the end of the 13th century. The
pagoda was one of the three centers of the Buddhist Truc Lam Trinity under the
Tran Dynasty (1225-1400). The pagoda was extended in 1329 and underwent several
restorations during the 17th and 18th centuries and in the last few decades. But
the pagoda’s slipper-shaped tiles and stone pedestals from the Tran Dynasty are
still preserved.
Gieng Ngoc ( Pearl Well)
Gieng Ngoc, or Pearl Well, is located on the side of Ky Lan Mountain at the foot
of a tower. Legend has it that in the full moon night of the seventh lunar
month, Huyen Quang, one of the founders of Truc Lam Zen Buddhism, sleeping in
his room at Con Son Pagoda dreamt of seeing a shiny pearl on the side of the
mountain. He wanted to get closer to scrutinize the pearl, but the sound of the
pagoda’s bell woke him up. However, he could not stop thinking about his dream.
So together with his assistants, Huyen Quang went to the mountain. There he
found a well containing fresh and cool water. When the monk returned to the
pagoda, he held a ceremony to thank the deities for the precious source of
water. He also made the well deeper. Since then, the Pearl Well’s water has been
offered in rituals at the pagoda.
Am Bach Van and Ban Co Tien
Am Bach Van (white cloud temple) stands on the flat top of Con Son Mountain next
to Ban Co Tien (fairy chessboard) and several other large flagstones called
“immortal chessboards” by local residents. Six hundred rocky steps lead up to
the chessboards. According to legend, visitors from Kinh Bac (northern
citadel) arrived in Con Son on autumn afternoon. After offering incense and
enjoying the scenery, the visitors stayed at the pagoda. Early the next morning,
they went to the mountain to play chess and drink wine. On the way up the
mountain they heard chatter and laughter. But when they reached the temple on
the mountain’s top no one was there, just a board with chess pieces showing an
interrupted game. The visitors thought that some heavenly deities must have
ridden clouds to Con Son Mountain to play chess and hurried back to heaven when
somebody approached the top of the mountain.
Con Son Stream and Thach Ban
Aside from these magic places, Con Son boasts many pine tree forests, some
having grown for several centuries, and several smaller forests of bamboo,
myrtle and peony. When the spring comes, it looks as if Con Son wears a flower
dress. Gently flowing all year round, Con Son Stream is also a well-known
tourist destination. Locals call the two large flat rocks on the stream’s banks
Thach Ban (stone table). A legend says Nguyen Trai (1380-1442), a politician and
poet under the post-Le Dynasty (1427-1789), used to sit on these rocks,
composing poems and pondering national issues.
Nguyen Trai Temple
The temple was dedicated to Nguyen Trai, built at Con Son in December 2000 and
inaugurated in 2002 in celebration of the 600th birthday anniversary of Nguyen
Trai. The constructions of the temple cover an area of 10,000m². The main temple
stands at the foot of To Son Mountain, flanked by two mountains An Lac and Ngu
Nhac. To its right is Con Son Stream. Inside the temple there are also the right
and left ceremonial halls, inside and outside gates, stele house, the urn for
burning votive offerings and Nghia Lake. The temple is a token of gratitude of
the Vietnamese people to Nguyen Trai, the World Cultural Celebrity.
Source: VNAT |
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