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Angkor Wat
The Cardamom Sanctuary
Angkor Wat, in its beauty and state of preservation, is unrivaled. Its
mightiness and magnificence bespeak a pomp and a luxury surpassing that of a
Pharaoh or a Shah Jahan, an impressiveness greater than that of the Pyramids, an
artistic distinctiveness as fine as that of the Taj Mahal.
Angkor Wat is located about six kilometers (four miles) north of Siem Reap,
south of Angkor Thom. Entry and exit to Angkor Wat can only be access from its
west gate.
Angkor Wat was built in the first half of the 12th century (113-5BC). Estimated
construction time of the temple is 30 years by King Suryavarman II, dedicated to
Vishnu (Hindu), replica of Angkor Thom style of art.
BACKGROUND
Angkor Wat, the largest monument of the Angkor group and the best preserved, is
an architectural masterpiece. Its perfection in composition, balance,
proportions, relief's and sculpture make it one of the finest monuments in the
world. Wat is the Thai name for temple (the French spelling is "vat "), which
was probably added to "Angkor "when it became a Theravada Buddhist monument,
most likely in the sixteenth century (for the etymology of the name 'Angkor' see
page 17) After 1432 when the capital moved to Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat was cared
for by Buddhist monks.
It is generally accepted that Angkor Wat was a funerary temple for King
Suryavarman II and oriented to the west to conform to the symbolism between the
setting sun and death. The bas-reliefs, designed for viewing from left to right
in the order of Hindu funereal ritual, support this function.
ARCHITECTURAL PLAN
The plan of Angkor Wat is difficult to grasp when walking through the monument
because of the vastness. Its complexity and beauty both attract and distract
one's attention. From a distance Angkor Wat appears to be a colossal mass of
stone on one level with a long causeway leading to the center but close up it is
a series of elevated towers, covered galleries, chambers, porches and courtyards
on different levels linked by stairways.
The height of Angkor Wat from the ground to the top of the central tower is
greater than it might appear: 213 meters (699 feet), achieved with three
rectangular or square levels (1-3) Each one is progressively smaller and higher
than the one below starting from the outer limits of the temple. Covered
galleries with columns define the boundaries of the first and second levels.
The third level supports five towers –four in the corners and one in the middle
and these is the most prominent architectural feature of Angkor Wat. This
arrangement is sometimes called a quincunx. Graduated tiers, one rising above
the other, give the towers a conical shape and, near the top, rows of lotuses
taper to a point. The overall profile imitates a lotus bud,
Several architectural lines stand out in the profile of the monument. The eye is
drawn left and right to the horizontal aspect of the levels and upward to the
soaring height of the towers. The ingenious plan of Angkor Wat only allows a
view of all five towers from certain angles. They are not visible, for example,
from the entrance. Many of the structures and courtyards are in the shape of a
cross. The. Visitor should study the plan on page 86 and become familiar with
this dominant layout. A curved sloping roof on galleries, chambers and aisles is
a hallmark of Angkor Wat. From a distance it looks like a series of long narrow
ridges but close up from identifies itself. It is a roof made of gracefully
arched stone rectangles placed end to end. Each row of tiles is capped with an
end tile at right angles the ridge of the roof. The scheme culminates in
decorated tympanums with elaborate frames.
Steps provide access to the various levels. Helen Churchill Candee, who visited
Angkor in the 1920s, thought their usefulness surpassed their architectural
purpose. The steps to Angkor Wat are made to force a halt at beauteous
obstruction that the mind may be prepared for the atmosphere of sanctity, she
wrote
In order to become familiar with the composition of Angkor Wat the visitor
should learn to recognize the repetitive elements in the architecture. Galleries
with columns, towers, curved roofs, tympanums, steps and the cross-shaped plan
occur again and again. It was by combining two or more of these aspects that a
sense of height was achieved. This arrangement was used to link one part of the
monument to another. Roofs were frequently layered to add height, length or
dimension. A smaller replica of the central towers was repeated at the limits of
two prominent areas-the galleries and the entry pavilions. The long causeway at
the entrance reappears on the other side of the entry pavilion.
SYMBOLISM
Angkor Wat is a miniature replica of the universe in stone and represents an
earthly model of the cosmic world. The central tower rises from the center of
the monument symbolizing the mythical mountain, Meru, situated at the center of
the universe. Its five towers correspond to the peaks of Meru. The outer wall
corresponds to the mountains at the edge of the world, and the surrounding moat
the oceans beyond.
LAYOUT
Even though Angkor Wat is the most photographed Khmer monument, nothing
approaches the actual experience of seeing this temple. Frank Vincent grasped
this sensation over 100 years ago. The general appearance of the wonder of the
temple is beautiful and romantic as well as impressive and grand it must be seen
to be understood and appreciated. One can never look upon the ensemble of the
vat without a thrill, a pause, a feeling of being caught up onto the heavens.
Perhaps it is the most impressive sight in the world of edifices.
Angkor Wat occupies a rectangular area of about 208 hectares (500 acres) defined
by a laetrile wall (4). The first evidence of the site is a moat with a long
sandstone causeway (length 250 meters, 820 feet; width 12 meters, 39 feet)
crossing it and serving as the main access to the monument (5). The moat is 200
meters (656 feel) wide with a perimeter of 5.5 kilometers (3.4 miles).
The west entrance begins with steps leading to a raised sandstone terrace (6) in
the shape of a cross at the foot of the long causeway. Giant stone lions on each
side of the terrace guard the monument.
Looking straight ahead, one can see at the end of the causeway the entry gate
with three towers of varying heights and with collapsed upper portion (7). This
entry tower hides the full view of the five towers of the central group. A long
covered failure with square columns and a curved roof extends along the moat to
the left and right of the entry tower. This is the majestic facade of Angkor Wat
and a fine example of classical Khmer architecture. Helen Churchill candee must
have been standing on this terrace almost 70 years ago when she wrote. Any
architect would thrill at the harmony of the fasade, an unbroken stretch of
repeated pillars leading from the far angles of the structure to the central
opening, which is dominated, by three imposing towers with broken summits.
This facade originally had another row of pillars with a roof. Evidence of this
remains in a series of round holes set in square based in front of the standing
pillars. Tip Before proceeding along the causeway turns right, go down the steps
of the terrace and walk along the path a few meters for a view of all five
towers of Angkor Wat. Return to the center of the terrace and walk down the
causeway towards the main part of the temple. The left-hand side of the causeway
has more original sand stone than the right-hand side, which was restored by the
French. In the 1920 when RJ Casey walked on this causeway he noted it was an
oddity of engineering The slabs were cut in irregular shapes, which meant that
each had to be chiseled to fit the one adjoining. The effect as seen under the
noonday sun...is like that of a long strip of watered silk'10
On the left side just before the midway point in the causeway two large feet are
carved in a block of sandstone. They belong to one of the figures at the
entrances to Angkor Thom and were brought to Angkor Wat in this century the
causeway was repaired with reused stones.
The causeway leads to the cross-shaped entry tower (7) mentioned earlier. The
upper portions of the three sections on this tower-one each at the center and
the two ends – have collapsed. The porches on each end of the gallery may have
served as passages for elephants, horses and carts as they are on ground level.
When Helen Churchill Candee saw these entrances in the 1920 she remarked that
architecture made to fit the passage of elephants is an idea most inspiriting. A
figure of a standing Visnu (eight arms) is in the right inside the entry tower.
Traces of original color can be seen on the ceiling of the entry tower at the
left.
Continue westward along a second raised walkway (length 350 meters, 1,148 feet;
width 9 meters, 30 feet) (8). A low balustrade resembling the body of a serpent
borders each side. Short columns support the balustrade. Looking west one sees
the celebrate view of Angkor Wat that appears on the Cambodian flag. Standing at
this point one teels compelled to get to the wondrous group of the five domes,
companions of the sky, sisters of the clouds, and determine whether or not one
lives in a world of reality or in a fantastic dream.
Six pairs of ceremonial stairs with platforms on each side of the walkway lead
to the courtyard. A continuation of the serpent balustrade along the walkway
frames the stairs. This arrangement is sometimes called a landing platform. The
balustrade terminates with the body of the serpent making a turn at right angles
towards the sky and gracefully spreading its nine heads to from the shape of a
fan.
Two buildings, so-called libraries (9) stand in the courtyard on the left and
right, just past the middle of the causeway. These 'jewel-boxes Khmer art 'are
perfectly formed. A large central area, four porches, columns and steps present
a symmetrical plan in the shape of a cross. Some of the columns have been
replaced with cement copies for support. An original pillar lies on the ground
before the library on the left.
In front of the libraries are two basins (length 65 meters, 213 feet, width 50
meters, 164 feet) (10) the one on the left is filled with water whereas the
other lone is usually dry. Tip Turn left at the first steps after the library
and before the basin and follow the path for about 40 meters (131 feet) to a
large tree for a superb view of the five towers of Angkor Wat, particularly at
sunrise.
The walkway leads to a terrace kin the shape of a cross, known as the Terrace of
Honor, Just in front of the principal entry tower of Angkor Wat (11) Supporting
columns and horizontal carved molding around the base accentuate the form of the
terrace. Steps flanked by lions on pedestals are on three sides of the terrace.
Ritual dances were performed here and it may have been where the king viewed
processions and received foreign dignitaries. R Casey sensed such activity in
the 1920s. One cannot but feel that only a few hours ago it was palpitating with
life. The torches were burning about the altars. Companies of priests were in
the galleries chanting the rituals. Dancing girls were flitting up and down the
steps... that was only an hour or two ago, monsieur....it cannot have been
more.. From the top of the terrace there is a fine view of the gallery on the
first level, known as the Gallery of Bas-reliefs (215 by 187 meters, 705 by 614
feet) (1). The outer side, closest to the visitor, comprises a row of 60 columns
whereas the inner side is a solid wall decorated with bas-reliefs.
Tip: At this point the visitor has the choice of continuing straight to
the central towers or turning right to see the Gallery of Bas-reliefs (see pages
96-108 for a description of the bas-reliefs).
The unit providing a link between the first and second levels is the
Cross-shaped Galleries (12). This unique architectural design consists of two
covered galleries with square columns in the shape of a cross and a courtyard
divided into four equal parts with paved basins and steps. The method used by
the Khmers to form corbel arches is visible in the vaults. Several decorative
features in these galleries stand out windows with balusters turned as if they
were made of wood, rosettes on the vaults, a frieze of Apsaras under the
cornices, and ascetics at the base of the columns.
Tip: Some of the pillars in the galleries
of this courtyard have inscriptions written in Sanskrit and Khmer. On either
side of the courtyard there are two libraries of similar form but smaller than
the ones along the entrance causeway (13).The Gallery of 1,000 Buddha's, on the
right, once contained many images dating from the period when Angkor Wat was
Backlist (14). Only a few of these figures remain today.
The gallery on the left is the Hall of Echoes, so named because of its unusual
acoustics (15).
Tip: to hear the resonance in the Hall of
Echoes walk to the end of the gallery, stand in the left-hand corner with your
back to the wall, thump your chest and listen carefully.
Those who want to visit the library (16) should leave the door at the end of
this gallery. There is a good view of the upper level of Angkor Wat from this
library. Return to the center of the cross-shaped galleries and continue walking
toward the central towers. Another set of stairs alerts one to the continuing
ascent. The outer wall of the gallery of the second level, closest to the
visitor, (100 by 115 meters, 328 by 377 feet), is solid and undecorated,
probably to create an environment for meditation by the priests and the king (2)
The starkness of the exterior of the second level gallery is offset by the
decoration of the interior. Over 1,500 Apsaras (celestial dancers) line the
walls of the gallery offering endless visual and spiritual enchantment. These
graceful and beautiful females delight all visitors. They were crated by the
Churning of the Ocean of Milk. When one first walks into the courtyard the
multitude of female figures on the walls and in the niches may seem repetitive
but as one moves closer and looks carefully one sees that every one of these
celestial nymphs is different, the elaborate coiffures, headdresses and jeweler
befit, yet never overpower, these 'ethereal inhabitants of the heavens'
Apsaras appear at Angkor Wat for the first time in twos and threes. These groups
break with the traditional of decoration kin other part of the temple by
standing with arms linked in coquettish postures and always in frontal view
except for the feet, which appear in profile.
Pang, a Cambodian poet, in a tribute to the Khmer ideal of female beauty wrote
of the Apsaras in the seventeenth century.
These millions of gracious figures, filling you with such emotion that the eye
is never wearied, the soul is renewed, and the heart sated! They were never
carved by the hands of men! They were created by the gods living, lovely,
breathing women! Only the king and the high priest were allowed on the upper or
third level of Angkor Wat (3) it lacks the stately covered galleries of the
other two but is the base of the five central towers, one of which contains the
most sacred image of the temple. The square base (60 meters, 197 feet long) of
the upper level is 13 meters (43 feet) high and raises over 40 meters (131 feet)
above the second level. Twelve sets of stairs with 40 steps each one in the
center of each side and two at the corners-ascend at a 70-degree angle giving
access to this level.
Tip: The stairway to the third level is less steep on the west (center)
but those who suffer from vertigo should use the south stairway (center, which
has concrete steps and a handrail. the steps on all sides are exceptionally
narrow. the visitor should ascend and descend sideways.
All the repetitive elements of the architectural composition of Angkor Wat
appear on the upper level. The space is divided into a cross-shaped area defined
with covered galleries and four paved courts. An entry tower with a porch and
columns is at the top of each stairway. Passages supported on both sides with
double rows of columns link the entry tower to the central structure. The
corners of the upper level are dominated by the four towers. Steps both separate
and link the different parts. A narrow covered gallery with a double row of
pillars and windows and balusters on the outer side surrounds the third level.
The Central sanctuary (17) rises on a tiered base 42 meters (137 feet) above the
upper level. The highest of the five towers, it is equal in height to the
cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris This central sanctuary sheltered the sacred
image of the temple. It originally had four porches opening to the cardinal
directions. The central core was walled up some time after the sacking of Angkor
in the middle if the fifteenth century. Nearly 500 years later French
archaeologists discovered a vertical shaft 27 meters (89 feet) below the surface
in the center of the upper level with a hoard of gold objects at the base. At
the summit the layout of Angkor Wat reveals itself at last. The view is a
spectacle of beauty befitting the Khmer's architectural genius for creating
harmonious proportions. Tip: Walk all the way around the outer gallery of the
upper level to enjoy the view of the surrounding countryside, the causeway in
the west and the central group of towers.
You have not quite an aerial view the Phnom [summit] is not high enough for that
...But you can see enough to realize something of the superb audacity of the
architects who dared to embark upon a single plan measuring nearly a mile
square. Your point of view is diagonal, across the north-west corner of the moat
to the soaring lotus-tip of the central sanctuary, you can trace the perfect
balance of every faultless line, Worshipful for its beauty bewildering in its
stupendous size, there is no other point from which the Wat appears so
inconceivable an undertaking to have been attempted-much less achieved by human
brains and hands.
GALLERY OF BAS- RELIEF
By their beauty they first attract, by their strangeness they hold attention,
Helen Churchill Candee wrote of the bas-reliefs in the 1920 .The Gallery of
Bas-reliefs, surrounding the first level of Angkor Wat, contains 1,200 square
meters (12,917 square feet) of sandstone carvings. The relief covers most of the
inner wall of all four sides of the gallery and extend for two meters (seven
feet) from top to bottom. The detail, quality composition and execution give
them an unequalled status in world art. Columns along the outer wall of the
gallery create an intriguing interplay of light and shadow on the relief. The
effect is one of textured wallpaper that looks like the work of painters rather
than sculptors' The bas-reliefs are of dazzling rich decoration-always kept in
check, never allowed to run unbridled over wall and ceiling possess strength and
repose, imagination and power of fantasy, wherever one looks [the] main effect
is one of "supreme dignity "wrote a visitor 50 years ago.
The bas-reliefs are divided into eight sections, two on each wall of the square
gallery each section depicts a specific theme. In addition the two pavilions at
the corners of the west Gallery have a variety of scenes. The book does not
include description of badly damaged relief. Some others are unidentifiable .The
composition of the relief can be divided into two types scenes without any
attempt to contain or separate the contents and scenes contain or separate the
contents; and scenes contained in panels which are some-times superimposed on
one another-this type is probably later. The panels run horizontally along the
wall and generally consist of two or three parts. Sometimes the borders at the
top bottom are also decorated. Themes for the bas-reliefs derive from two main
sources-Indian epics and sacred books and warfare of the Angkor Period. Some
scholars suggest that the placement of a relief has a relevance to its theme.
The relief on the east and west walls, for example, depict themes related to the
rising and setting sun.
The word bas means low or shallow and refers to the degree of projection of the
relief. The method of creating relief at Angkor Wat was generally to carve away
the background leaving the design in relief. Sometime, though the method was
reversed giving a sunken appearance. Parts of some of the relief have a polished
appearance on the surface. There are two theories as to why this occurred. The
position of the sheen and its occurrence in important parts of the relief
suggest it may have resulted from visitors rubbing their hands over them. Some
art historians, though think it was the result of lacquer applied over the
relief. Traces of gilt and paint, particularly black and red, can also be found
on some of the relief's. They are probably the remains of an undercoat or a
fixative. Several primitive artistic conventions are seen in the bas-reliefs. A
river is represented by two parallel vertical lines with fish swimming between
them. As in Egyptian art, a person's rank is indicated by size. The higher the
rank the larger the size. In battle scenes, broken shafts on the ceremonial
umbrellas of a chief signify defeat. Perspective is shown by planes placed one
above the other. The higher up the wall, the further away is the scene. Figures
with legs far apart and knees flexed are in a flying posture.
INVITING THE GALLERY OF BAS-RELIEFS
Those who like to linger in this wonderful gallery of bas-reliefs will always be
made happy by new discoveries will return as other joys of Angkor will allow.
Tip: As the bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat were designed for viewing from to lefts
the visitor should, follow this convention for maximum appreciation. Enter at
the west entrance, turn right into the gallery and continue walking
counterclockwise. If you start from another point always keep the monument on
your left. If one's time at Angkor is limited, the following bas-recommended
(the numbers refer to pan page 97)
Location Theme
1 West gallery
Battle of Kurukshetra
3 South Gallery
Army of king Suryavarman II
4 South Gallery
Judgement by Yama heaven and Hell
5 East Gallery
Churning of the Ocean of Milk
11 West Gallery
Battle of Lanka
Description of the bas-reliefs in this guidebook follows the normal route for
viewing Angkor Wat. They begin in the middle of the West Gallery and continue
counter clockwise. The other half of the West Gallery is at the end of the
section. Identifying characteristics are in parenthesis and the locations of
scenes on the bas-reliefs are in bold type.
WEST GALLERY - BATTLE OF KURUKSHETRA
This battle scene is the main subject of the Hindu epic Mahabharata. It
recalls the historic was wars in Kurukshetra, a province in India, and depicts
the last battle between rival enemies who are cousins (see page 54 for a
description of this legend).
The armies of the Kauravas and the Pandavas march from opposite ends towards the
center of the panel where they meet in combat. Headpieces differentiate the
warriors of the two armies. The scene begins with infantry marching into battle
and musicians playing a rhythmic cadence. The battlefield is the scene of
hand-to-hand combat and many dead soldiers. Chief officers and generals
(represented on a larger scale) oversee the battle in chariots and on elephants
and horses. The scene builds up gradually and climaxes in a melée. Bisma (near
the beginning of the pane), one of the heroes of the Mahabharata and commander
of the Kauravas, pierced with arrow, is dying and his men surround him. Arjuna
(holding a shield decorated with the face of the demon rahu) shoots an arrow at
Krsna, his half-brother, and kills him. After death, Krsna (four arms) becomes
the charioteer of Arjuna.
Corner pavilion (southwest)
Enter the pavilion and view the scenes facing you. Then continue clockwise
around the pavilion (see insert page 97). The bas-reliefs in this pavilion
depict scenes from epic the Ramayana.
EAST
A- Left, Water festival; two ships (superimposed) with Apsaras, chess players
(top ship)
B- Center, above the door: A god receiving offerings.
SOUTH
C- Left, top to bottom. A fight between Vali and Sugriva, the monkey king; Rama
shoots Vali with an arrow who lies in the arms of his wife (three pointed
headdress); monkeys mourn his death
D- Center, above the door: Murder of a demon; Krsna extinguishes a fire west.
E- Left: Siva sits with his wife Paravati on Mount Kailasa
F- Center, above the door: Krsna uproots trees with a stone he is tied to.
G- Right: Ravana, disguised as a chameleon, presents himself at the palace of
Indra.
NORTH
H- Left: The Churning of the Ocean of Milk.
I - Center, above the door: Rama kills Marica, who, disguised as a golden stag,
helped in the abduction of Sita (see pages 52-4 for a description of this
legend).
J- Right: Krsna lifts Mount Govardhana to shelter their shepherds and their
herds from the storm ignited by the anger of Indra (see page 57 for a detailed
description of this legend)
SOUTH (HISTORICAL) GALLERY - ARMY OF KING SORYAVAMAN II
This gallery depicts a splendid triumphal procession from a battle between the
Khmers and their enemies. The relief's show methods used in warfare, mainly
hand-to-hand combat, as they no machinery and no knowledge of firearms. The
naturalistic depiction of trees and animals in the background of this panel is
unusual. The central figure of this gallery is King Suryavarman II, the builder
of Angkor Wat, who appears twice. An inscription on the panel identifies him by
his posthumous name, suggesting it may have been done after his death. The
rectangular holes randomly cut n this gallery may have contained precious
objects of the temple.
On the upper tier the king (seated with traces of gilt on his body) holds an
audience on a mountain. Below of the place walk down a mountain in the forest.
The army gathers for inspection and the commander mounted on elephants join
their troops who are marching towards the enemy. The commander's rank is
identified by a small inscription near the figure. King Suryavarman II stands on
an elephant (conical headdress, sword with the blade across his shoulder) and
servants around him hold 15 ceremonial umbrellas. Visnu stands on a Garuda on a
Garuda on a flagpole in front of the king's elephant.
The lively and loud procession of the Sacred Fire (carried in an ark) follows
with standard bearers, musicians and jesters. Brahmans chant to the
accompaniment of cymbals. The royal sacrifice in a palanquin.
Towards the end of the panel: The military procession resumes with a troop of
Thai soldiers (pleated skirts with floral pattern; belts with long pendants;
plaited hair; headdresses with plumes; short moustaches) led by their commander
who is mounted on an elephant. The Thai troops were probably either mercenaries
of a contingent from the province of Louvo (today called Lopburi) conscripted to
the Khmer army. A number of the Khmer warriors wear helmets with horns of animal
heads (deer, horse, bird) and some of their shields are embellished with
monsters for the same purpose.
JUDGEMENT BY YAMA; HEAVEN AND HELL
Three tiers recount the judgment of mankind by Yama and two tiers depict Heaven
and Hell. Inscriptions have identified 37 heavens where one sees leisurely
pursuits in palaces and 32 hells with scenes of punishment and suffering.
Draperies and Apsaras separate the two and a row of Garudas borders the tier in
the bottom. The roof was destroyed by lightning in 1947 and subsequently the
ceiling of this gallery was restored by the French. Traces of gilt can be on
riders on horses at the beginning of the panel. The lower section of the panel
was badly damaged and liter filled with cement.
Lower tier: Yama, the Supreme Judge (multiple arms, wields a staff and
rides a buffalo), points out to his scribes the upper road representing heaven
and the lower one of hell. Departed spirits a wait judgment. Assistants to Yama
shove the wicked through a trap door to the lower regions where torturers
deliver punishments such as sawing a body in half for those who overeat.
Lawbreakers have their bones broken. Some of the punished wear iron shackles or
have nails pierced through their heads.
Upper tier: A celestial palace is supported by a frieze of Garudas with
Apsaras in the skies.
EAST GALLERY - CHURNING OF THE OCEAN OF MILK
This is the most famous panel of bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat and derives from
the Indian epic Bagavata-Pourana. The Ocean of Milk is churned by gods and
demons to generate Amrta, the elixir of life. the purpose of the churning is to
recover lost treasures such as the sourer of immortality, Laksmi the goddess of
good fortune, the milk white elephant of Indra, and the nymph of loveliness. The
retrieval of these objects symbolizes prosperity. It takes place during the
second ascent of Visnu, when he is incarnated as a tortoise.
The scene is decided into three tiers. The lower tier comprises various aquatic
animals, real and mythical, and is bordered by a serpent. The middle tier has,
on one side, a row of 92 demons (round bulging eyes, crested helmets) and, on
the other side, a row of 88 gods (almond-shaped eyes, conical headdresses). They
work together by holding and churning the serpent. Hanuman, the monkey god,
assists. Visnu, in his reincarnation as a tortoise, offers the back of his shell
as a base for the mountain Mandara, and as a pivot for the churning. He sits on
the bottom of the Ocean. A huge cord in the form of the body of the serpent
Vasuki acts as a stirring instrument to churn the sea. To begin the motion the
gods and demons twist the serpent's body; the demons hold the head and the gods
hold the tail of the serpent. Then by pulling it rhythmically back and forth
they cause the pivot to rotate and churn the water. The gods and demons are
directed by three persons (identified by their larger size). Indra is on top of
Visnu. On the extreme right Hanuman, ally of the gods, tickles the serpent.
Upper tier: During the churning various female spirits emerge.
Visnu appears in this scene again in yet another reincarnation-as a human
being-to preside over the "churning "which, according to legend, lasted more
than 1,000 years. Numerous other beings are depicted such as the three-headed
elephant mount of Indra, Apsaras and Laksmmi, the goddess of beauty. They
churning provoke the serpent to vomit the mortal venom, which covers the waves.
Afraid the venom may destroy the gods and demons, Brahma intervenes and requests
Siva to devour and drink the venom, which will leave an indelible trace on
Siva's throat. He complies and, as a result, he Amtrak pours forth. The demon
rush to capture all the liquid. Visnu hurries to the rescue and assumes yet
another reincarnation in the form of Maya, a bewitching beauty, and is able to
restore much of the coveted liquid.
INSCRIPTION
Just past the middle of the East Gallery there is an interesting inscription of
the early eighteenth century when Angkor Wat was a Buddhist monastery. It tells
of a provincial governor who built a small tomb where he deposited the bones of
his wife and children. The structure is in poor condition but recognizable in
its original location, directly in front of the inscription in the gallery.
VICTORY OF VISNU OVER THE DEMONS
The bas-reliefs in this section of the Wast Gallery and the south part of the
North Gallery were probably completed at a later date, perhaps the fifteenth or
sixteenth century. The stiffness of the figures and the cursory workmanship
reveal this change. An army of demons marches towards the center of the panel.
Center: Visnu (four arms) sits on the shoulders of a Garuda. A scene of carnage
follows. Visnu slaughters the enemies on both sides and disperses the bodies.
The leaders of the demons (mounted on animals or riding or riding in chariots
drawn by monsters) are surrounded by marching soldiers. Another group of
warriors (bows and arrows) with their chiefs (in chariest of mounted on huge
peacocks) follows.
NORTH GALLERY
VICTORY OF KRSNA OVER BANA THE DEMON KING
At the beginning of the panel Visnu in his incarnation as Krsna (framed by
two heroes) sits on the shoulders of a Gruda. Agni, the god of Fire (multiple
arms), sits on a rhinoceros behind him. This scene appears several times. A wall
surrounding the city is on fire and prevents the advance of Krsna (mounted of a
Garuda) and his army of gods. This Krsna scene also appears several times in the
panel. The Garuda extinguishes the fire with water from the sacred river Ganges.
The demon Bana (multiple arms, mounted on a rhinoceros) approaches from the
opposite direction. Extreme right: Krsna (1,000 heads, hands across his chest)
kneels in front of Siva who sits enthroned on Mount Kailasa with his wife
Parvati and their son ganesa (head of an elephant) as they demand that Siva
spare the life of Bana.
BATTILE BETWEEN THE GODS AND THE DEMONS
A procession of 21 gods of the Brahmanic pantheon march in procession carrying
classic attributes and riding traditional mounts. One-god battles against a
demon while warriors on both sides battle in the background. A series of
adversaries follow, the Kubera, God of riches (with bow and arrow), Appears on
the shoulders of a Yaksa; followed by Skanda, Goe of war (multiple heads and
arms), mounded on a peacock; Indra stands on his mount the elephant; Visnu (four
arms) sits on his mount, a Guard; a demon (tiered heads) shaking swords; Yama,
God of Death and. Justice (sword and shield), stands in a chariot pulled by
horses; and Varian, God of the Water, stands on a five-headed serpent harnessed
like a beast of burden.
CORNER PAVILION (NORTHWEST)
Enter the pavilion and walk counter-clockwise (see inset page 97). Several of
the scenes are in good condition.
NORTH
A- Right: The women's quarters of a palace.
B- Center, above the door: An attempt to abduct site in the forest.
C- Left, badly damaged: A scene from the Ramayana.
Above: Tiers of monkeys and a pyre
WEST
D- Right: rama in his chariot (drawn by geese) returns victorious to Ayodhya
E- Center, above the door: Rama and Laksmana surrounded by monkeys.
F- Left: A conversation between Sita and Hanuman in the forest; Hanuman gives
Rama’s ring to Sota.
SOUTH
G- Right Visni (seated, four arms) surrounded by Apsaras.
H- Center, above the door: Rama and Laksmana battle a monster (headless, face on
stomach)
I- Left: Rama wins an archery competition; Rama and Sita sitting together.
EAST
J- Right: Visnu (four arms) on a Garuda; Krsna (mounted on a Garuda) bring back
Mount Maniparvata which he took from a demon he killed; his army carries the
remains of the demon.
K- Center, above the door: Discussions on an alliance.
Left: Rama and his brother Laksmana.
Right: Suryva, the monkey king
L- Left: Visnu reclines on the serpent Anent.
Below: A group of nine gods with their mounts
(1) Surya in a chariot pulled by horses
(2) Kubera standing on the shoulders of a Yaksa
(3) Brahma riding a goose
(4) Skanda on a peacock
(5) An unidentified god on a horse
(6) Indra on a three-headed elephant
(7) Yama riding a buffalo
(8) Siva on a bull
(9) An unidentified god on a lion
WEST GALLERY - BATTLE OF LANKA
This scene from the Ramayana is a long and fierce struggle between Rama and the
demon king Ravana (10 heads and 20 arms), near the center. It is among the
finest of the bas-reliefs at Angkor Wat. The battle takes place in Lanka (Sri
Lanka) and ends with the defeat of Ravana, captor of Sita, the beautiful wife of
Rama. The central figures are the monkey warriors who fight against the raksasas
on Rama's side. The brutality of war is juxtaposed with a graceful rendition of
lithesome monkeys.
Past the center: Rama stands on the shoulders of Sugriva surrounded by arrows;
Laksmana, his brother, and an old demon, stand by Rama. Nearby, the demon king
Ravana (10 heads and 20 arms) rides in a chariot drawn by mythical lions.
Further on, Nala, the monkey who built Rama's bridge to Lanka, is between them
leaning on the heads of two lions. He throws the body of one he has just beaten
over his shoulder. A monkey prince tears out the tusk of an elephant, which is
capped with a three-pointed headdress and throws him and the demon to the
ground.
Leaving Angkor Wat; "One looks upon it through misty eyes and with an odd
constriction of the throat, for there is only one Angkor. There is no such
monument to vanished people anywhere else in the world.
Source: Ministry of Tourism of the Kingdom of Cambodia |
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Visited: 1967