A day in the heart of Central Highlands

      In the Central Highlands province of Daklak, one may have various places to see and to enrich their knowledge in a locality widely known as the land of epics. There are magnificent waterfalls, an ocean-like lake, old-fashioned structures, and thrilling terrains you name it. Having only one day for going places, I randomly opted for Bao Dai palace out of curiosity about one vestige of the recent dynasty, only to find myself richly rewarded with a new, sudden discovery: the Ko Nia tree.
Many people in Vietnam know well a song titled The Shadow of Ko Nia Tree by veteran Vietnamese composer Phan Huynh Dieu. The song is about an ethnic wife missing her husband who went into the battle during the Vietnam War. Every adult can sing the song by heart because of its very beautiful lyrics, which show how the young wife through the shade of the giant tree is saddened by her husband’s faraway whereabouts.
However, few people know what a Ko Nia tree is, and I am no exception.
The chance comes up quite suddenly.
Upon arriving in Buon Me Thuot city, the provincial capital of Daklak, I dropped by the home of an old friend for a visit. Soon after, my friend took me to Bao Dai palace where Vietnam’s last emperor used to stay as a retreat.
While approaching the palace from Y Ngong street, we came across two giant trees, and I was told they are the Ko Nia. I ran into rupture at the mere mention of the name, and was aware that my effort to cover the long distance of 350km from HCMC was worth it. I have been quite curious about the tree, for long.
The trees made a searing impression on my mind with their huge leaf canopy and long branches and heights of nearly 100 meters. The trunks were so thick it took at least nine people to encircle one by joining hands. No wonder the tree takes a significant place in the highlands’ poetry, as seen in the poem The Shadow of Ko Nia Tree by writer Ngoc Anh, which was later made into a famous song by composer Phan Huynh Dieu as mentioned earlier.
Amazingly, the trees have a shape like long roof houses, which are very popular in the region. Long houses are usually venues for tribal groups to gather together during important events of the community.
We then left the trees for Bao Dai Palace, only to find out an interesting feature about the structure of the house used by last King of the Nguyen Dynasty, who passed away in 1997.
The palace stands lonely under many green trees. Looking at the front of the house, what we immediately perceived was that it looks like a long house, while from the rear, it looks European in style with the surrounding trees standing guard like soldiers.
In fact, the house was rebuilt in 1940, remodeled after the Highland architecture pattern combined with modern features. The roof and floor of the house are wood and there is also a basement. Vietnam’s last Emperor, Bao Dai of the Nguyen Dynasty, used it for quarters and receptions when he was in the region.
After the victory of the August Revolution in 1945, Daklak ethnic minority unification festivals were often held in the house, including a public display of their works, in a united and solemn atmosphere.
The palace has been recognized as a historical-cultural vestige by the Ministry Culture, Sports and Tourism and has become a museum for displaying historical cultural objects of Daklak ethnic groups. Thus, visitors will see gongs, drums, and wooden artifacts that describe daily activities and a colorful culture of tribespeople there.
Of course one day is too short for anyone wanting to explore Daklak in its cultural entirely. But to me, the day was really exciting. In visiting the Bao Dai palace, I had a great chance to learn more how the long house tradition has a twist on structure, and even on nature, as seen in the shape of the Ko Nia trees I accidentally came across.