The quiet life

Lu ethnic minority communities live a quiet and traditional life in Vietnam’s northwest.
In Vietnam, the Lu ethnic minority is one of the lesser known hill tribes. With a population of just over 4,000, Lu communities are found mainly in Lai Chau and Dien Bien provinces in northern Vietnam.
Confusingly, the Lu hill tribe is known by many names – Nhuon, Duon, Thay Lu, Thay U, Thay Sin and Thay Hung.
Historians believe the Lu first appeared on Vietnamese soil back in the 12th century, most likely arriving from Xipxong Pana in China. The first vestiges of Lu settlements can be found at Tam Van citadel and in the Na Lu fields of Dien Bien province. It wasn’t until the 18th century that Lu settlements sprung up in Lai Chau province.
After arriving in Vietnam, Lu communities were under the rule and influence of the more powerful and populous Thai hill tribe.That influence is still apparent today. As you will find in Thai communities, Lu women also make colourful brocades. Every family has several manual looms and Lu women are highly skilled weavers.
The typical Lu house is built on stilts but unlike other ethnic minorities Lu houses have only one door that must face north. In the past, Lu men must have been a fairly intimidating bunch as they were never seen without a sword and they dyed their teeth black and were covered in tattoos. Today they’re more genteel looking but Lu women still dye their teeth black.
Lu people have three main surnames: Vang, Tao and Lo. People can change their surname if they fall seriously ill or run into misfortune, as they believe by changing their name they can escape from evil spirits.
Cam Muong festival
Besides worshipping Buddhism, Lu people believe that everything has its own soul and the lives of people are affected by both harmful and helpful souls. A person’s main soul is in their head, while supporting souls can be found in the nose, eyes, ears and mouth. Lu people also believe that the “most significant” death is old death and the “nastiest” death is a sudden death, especially a drowning or a death in a forest.
The village’s ghosts are the most important spirits and all festivals will be devoted in their honour. Each family will have its own spirits protecting them from evils and illness. One of the most important festivals is Cam Muong festival (hamlet-worshipping festival), taking place on the third day of the third lunar month. In some localities like Lai Chau province’s Sin Ho district, the festival is held between the 15th and 17th day of the 10th lunar month. The festival is dedicated to the genies of rivers and mountains, as well as village ancestors. Participants will ask for happiness, luck and affluence.
After a singing performance, a local healer or soothsayer will speak of the history of the minority, the importance of the festival and read out the names of the official attendants. Then he will read prayers out solemnly, while all attendants have to keep silent because if they say anything, this will disturb the sacred souls, which are quietly listening to the prayers around them.
After the ritual, men play the flute and drums while girls sing songs in praise of the tribe. The songs are about the history of the people but they also contain words of advice from former generations for the benefit of present or younger generations.
During the festival there will be many games – like tug of war or stick fighting. There’s a lot riding on the games. Those who lose are believed to face bad luck, while the victors will enjoy good luck. However, after the festival, water is splashed around to wash away everyone’s bad luck.
Wedding days
Lu people marry voluntarily. The wedding ceremony, called Kin Khec, often takes place in spring, which marks the beginning of the year. One day before the wedding, the groom’s family representatives, save the groom, will bring tributes to the bridal family.
On the same night the bride will sing farewell songs to her friends before beginning her life with her husband’s family the next day. On the wedding day, a matchmaker will come to the bride’s family home to ask when the groom can come to live with her.
The bride’s family has to prepare a table with plenty of liquor, a bowl of meat and a pair of chopsticks. The matchmaker will kneel before the bride’s family altar and – singing rather than praying – he will inform the family’s ancestors that the groom would like to live here.
The bride’s family will offer the matchmaker some liquor and meat to express their gratitude towards him for pairing off the young couple. The groom’s procession will duly arrive. They will be welcomed at the foot of the house’s staircase with liquor. People will greet each other and offer best wishes to the couple. The bride’s family will prepare a tray of food including a pig’s head, legs and tail, and a boiled cockerel to offer to their ancestors while informing them of the new member and the wedding.
After that the groom’s procession is allowed to enter the house. There will be a tray of liquor to keep everyone in good humour! Meanwhile the bride will offer a dowry – clothes, skirts, earrings and necklaces – to the groom’s family.
With their head’s bowing, the couple will kneel in front of the altar and representatives of the two families, while the matchmaker will sing good wishes to the couple. After that, members of both families will join hands and wish the couple longevity and affluence in life. They will also tie the couple’s hands with red threads as a symbol of their deep love. The groom’s family will also present the bride with money, fabrics and skirts.
The bride’s family will then give each guest a stick pasted with wax, which symbolises sweetness and happiness. The bride will then say goodbye to all of her clan and join the groom’s procession to return to the groom’s family. There the wedding party continues -- guests continue drinking liquor until the next morning! The groom has to have his drinking boots on as he must drink a bowl of liquor with each guest.
He’s not even allowed to sit down! He must squat while receiving guests during the wedding performance. By doing this the groom will show his in-laws that he is a diligent man.The next day, the bride must also show her newly-acquired in-laws she is a dutiful woman. She must carry two vessels of water to each member of her husband’s clan. In return she will be offered chicken, pork, plates and bowls – these are the wedding gifts to help the newly weds start a family of their own.
After the wedding, the groom will go to live with his wife’s family for three or five years before being allowed to return to his own family. When a baby is born, his or her name is written on a cloth sheet, which is then treasured for generations by the family. Divorces rarely occur as no can afford to do it! Not because of a settlement but because Lu people are heavily punished by the village, if they want to live apart from their spouse.